Charming upscale accommodation in Rioja Wine Region, Spain. The best location to discover Northern Spain: wineries, modern architecture, Medieval quaint villages, the best restaurants, spas, etc....Indulge in the pleasures of slow good living with a glass of Rioja wine in your hand. Welcome to the pleasures of "la buena vida".
Please check www.casajosephine.com
We would like to welcome spring with a letter of gratitude to all our friends, clients and journalists who have supported Casa Josephine through the past two years. It is really rewarding to see that the project we started simply with our love and instinct is so appreciated by our guests.
So this post is just to say Gracias, Thank You and Danke to you all, especially to the magazines that published articles about us recently: Casa y Campo, Maxi,Living Etc and Elle Decoration....simply the best! We cannot be happier!
Queremos agradecer a todos los amigos y clientes el apoyo prestado durante nuestros dos primeros años al frente de Casa Josephine. Es un placer comprobar que nuestra casa, que empezó como un sueño, se ha convertido en una realidad de la que nuestros huéspedes disfrutan como nosotros mismos. Empezamos la primavera también dando las gracias a la prensa que se hace eco de Casa Josephine. Casa y Campo, Maxi (Alemania), Living Etc (Inglaterra) y Elle Decoration (Alemania) publican amplios reportajes sobre Casa Josephine. ¡Muchas gracias y feliz primavera!
A post about Casa Josephine was added www.jodii.de, a really cool "blog about everything handmade" created by German artist and trend-hunter Sophie Pester. Her blog is a rich source of inspiration...have a look and spread the word. Gracias! www.jodii.de
PICTURE YOURSELF IN RIOJA. You are on holidays and a whole week of experiences lies ahead.
What can you do and see, where should you absolutely go, what are the "musts" for your first stay in Rioja?
A suggested itinerary for a week in Rioja:
Day 1-Arrival.Land in Bilbao or Logroño.
Bilbao is the nearest international airport, merely 1 hour and 15 minutes away from Casa Josephine (highway).
There are direct flights to Bilbao from most European airports.
If you are flying from America or elsewhere, you will land first in Madrid or Barcelona, from where you can fly to Bilbao or Logroño (25 minutes from Casa Josephine).
Guggenheim Museum in Bilbao is an absolute gem for architecture and art lovers. Frank Gehry simply changed the looks and the course of history for the city of Bilbao, which was dull, grey and unfriendly before the Museum existed.
Please note: the restaurant at the Museum is outstanding.
Check-in at Casa Josephine and relax. We will meet you at the house with a bottle of red Rioja (how else?).
Bienvenidos!
Day 2- Simply RELAX. Believe us: there is no better way to start your holidays. Dont plan anything for today. Just take a break and enjoy your leisure at Casa Josephine. Linger in bed, chat with the neighbours, walk in the hills around the village, read, try cooking a local recipe....experience the pleasure of the slow life. Time is luxury.
Day 3- Wine and wineries. Drive among vineyards to Haro, capital of Rioja Wine, 30 minutes away from us. All over the area, on both banks of River Ebro, there are dozens of outstanding wineries that are worth visiting....from 15th century cellars to 21st hi-tech striking buildings.
(Please scroll down for a list of our ten favourites, or simply ask!)
Because that area has been traditionally aristocratic and wealthy, there are lovely palaces, churches and churches in the area: Abalos, Haro, San Vicente de la Sonsierra, Briñas.
Day 4- Dinosaurs al fresco.
Did you know that Rioja has the biggest palaeontological site with dinosaurs' footprints IN THE WORLD?
If you are travelling with children, this excursion is a must. It is a full-day excursion to a series of valleys in the Eastern part of Rioja.
1 hour 30 minutes from Casa Josephine you will find the village of Igea: at its Palaeontological Centre, you can find out details on the 40 sites in the area. These include Valdecillo, one of the most straightforward sites to interpret; Conargo, where it looks like the dinosaurs have just passed, its prints are of such good quality; and Era del Peladillo, in Igea, which is the Europe's no.1 and the world's no. 3 site in terms of number of prints. In Igea, you can also visit the La Rioja Palaeontological Centre. English-speakers at the centre are available (must be advised in advance)
This can be a real treat for children. As there are hundreds of footprints scattered over several hectares, you will be provided with a map and you can discover the sites on your own.
There are many nice villages in the area. Finding a place to eat (and to eat well) is also easy.
Day 5- A quaint Medieval capital.
You may use this day's morning to get familiar with the city of Logroño, a small wealthy capital by river Ebro with a lovely Medieval quarter and a beatiful cathedral. Camino de Santiago (pilgrims’ route to Santiago de Compostela) crosses the city. It is also worth visiting the food market and the small streets around, where locals meet for tapas.
There are excellent choices for lunch in Logroño.
In the afternoon, visit Laguardia, a lovely fortified Medieval village just six miles South of Logroño, on the other bank of the river where Santiago Calatrava recently built a winery.
(Please note: The bests spas in Northern Spain are, for some reason, in Logroño).
Day 6- World Heritage monasteries: the birthplace of the Spanish Language.
In the middle of the Cárdenas river valley sits San Millán de la Cogolla, a Rioja town founded by the saint of the same name and linked for centuries to the Pilgrim's Route to Santiago de Compostela. The deep-rooted monastic tradition of the town can be seen in the beautiful collection of historic buildings it houses, where the Monasteries of Suso and Yuso, both declared World Heritage Sites, are outstanding. The importance of San Millán de la Cogolla is also due to its status as "the cradle" of the Spanish tongue, since the first documents written in this language are preserved here.
San Millán de la Cogolla is 35 minutes away from Casa Josephine.
Day 7- Beach and bulls: San Sebastian and Pamplona.
A full-day excursion to San Sebastián is highly recommended. It is 1h45 minutes from Casa Josephine. San Sebastián is a charming elegant city, with the finest beach in Northern Spain. 19th century aristocracy chose San Sebastian as their favourite seaside destination.
Halfway between Casa Josephine and San Sebastian is Pamplona. You may want to make a quick stop on the way back for an afternoon walk in downtown Pamplona, as the city will be getting ready for the big celebrations of San Fermin (beginning of July, when they do the “running of the bulls”).
Bienvenidos a la Rioja! Bienvenidos a Casa Josephine!
Is Rioja the new Tuscany? (The answer is yes, but you may want to keep on reading to find out why).
The secret is not totally out yet, but is somehow in the air. According to trend-hunters, the discerning traveler has had enough of the touristy, market-oriented experience that Tuscany provides and is setting his/her avid eye on new European destinations. Rioja tops the list. Why?
1- Perfect location to discover Northern Spain. Just between Bilbao, Navarra, Castilla and Zaragoza, you are less than one hour away from some of Europe's major highlights (Guggenheim museum, Marqués de Riscal, Laguardia Burgos Cathedral, Pamplona....).
2- Most visitors are Spaniards, independent travelers, hikers or families. As Rioja is not on the tour companies' itineraries -and we keep our fingers crossed for it never to be-, you will not see huge buses or crowds of people being herded from monument to monument. A relief, isn't it?
3- People. You will find Riojanos to be warm, personable, relaxed, open and generous people, who are keen on visitors. When a Riojano opens his doors for you and uncorks a bottle of wine, he means well and does it wholeheartedly (in case you doubt, you should never forget that this very, very wealthy region does not need tourism...)
4- Stunning striking modern architecture for wineries has put Rioja on the map for modern architecture lovers. In number of major works by major masters, this region is second to none in Europe.
5- Art: Camino de Santiago, the pilgrims' route that religious hikers follow on their way to the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela, crosses the region, accounting for Rioja's outstanding artistic wealth since the Middle Ages. Monasteries, castles, fortified villages, cathedrals....
5-Nature. Seven different valleys, one after the other, with mountain rivers that empty on big Ebro: that is Rioja. This means an amazing natural diversity, from ski resorts to fertile plains.
5- Food: several of the best restaurants in Spain are in Rioja.
6- Wine. Do we need to say more?
Word is going round that Rioja is to be the next secret destination. And this time -pun intended-, you did heard it through the grapevine!
Casa & Campo, the most prestigious decoration magazine for country homes in Spain, dedicates a 10-page special to Casa Josephine in its December issue. Here's just a glimpse.
Yes, we are feeling very Norwegian lately! This is because Casa Josephine is recommended by Tourspain-Oslo in this month's bulletin, a magazine that is sent to travel agents, magazines and tour operators in Norway.
So we are happy to say to our friends in Norway....come visit Rioja and we will greet you with a smile and a glass of tinto. You are very welcome!
We are extremely happy to anounce that IÑIGO ARAGON, who decorated Casa Josephine with utmost care and love has been awarded with a prestigious Photography Scholarship for a series of photographs shot in Sorzano -at and around the house. Here's just an example.
We love Valenciso. They make only one wine per year, only Reserva and only from Tempranillo grapes. Why should they bother doing anything else when they excel in what they do? Simplicity here means perfection. And we mean it.
Their winery is in Ollauri, a lovely village just outside Haro, in the very heart of the very heart of Rioja Alta. They started their winery 10 years ago with 1998 vintage...so happy birthday, Valenciso!
You may want to go to San Vicente de la Sonsierra for: a- its breathtaking views over Ebro valley b -its wineries (mythical "Contador" wine is produced here). c- Casa Toni. d- all of the above.
Casa Toni is in fact two restaurants, one traditional and one modern -both excellent. As chef Jesús Saez says, "you may experiment but you should never forget the roots of regional cuisine".
Cachetero is not simply a restaurant: it is an institution in Logroño. It opened 100 years ago as a basic "casa de comidas" and it is now, four generations after, one of our favourite restaurants in the region. Great location, nice atmosphere and excellent traditional food cooked by chef Diego Arechinolaza and his team. What else can you ask for? Wine, of course....but, hey, you are in Rioja...you can take that for granted here!
You know you cannot go wrong with brothers Ignacio and Carlos Echapresto, owners of the already multi-awarded, multi-praised restaurant Venta de Moncalvillo -which is, by the way, three miles away from us.
Well, we have great news: they just opened "8-20", an exclusive (really) restaurant downtown Logroño, right in the old section. The restaurant opens only by appointment for private groups from 8 to 20 people -hence the name. They'll cook exclusively for you and your selected party and lead you through a gastronomic experience that will be hard to match!
Please excuse us for not updating the blog in the last weeks.....It is harvest time and we are carefully monitoring each and every grape in the region to see how they turn into vino.
The cycle starts again, the wineries are at their busiest....and we simply cannot wait to taste 2008!!
Because we dream of the possibility of starting an orchard for Casa Josephine, we have been learning from the experts. José -neighbour and friend- has patiently taught us how things are done: what grows when, where to plant what, when to pick what...
And here's what we learnt above anything else: growing a vegetable garden is easy when the soil is so fertile....in fact, fertile to a crazy extent!
From June to September, this is the harvest in Sorzano: Plums, cherries, kumquats, strawberries, beans, peaches, cabagge, zucchini, cucumbers, onions, pears, lettuce, apples, tomatoes, peppers...
And now that summer draws to its end...get your baskets ready for figs and grapes!
We didn’t know there was a philosophy behind our actions…we really did not. And now we find out that we are part (more or less) of a hype cool global movement! Here’s the story:
Casa Josephine does not have a garden. When it was built, at the turn of the 19th century, town houses in this area of Rioja did not have gardens –vegetable gardens were, and still are, outside the village. However, there was an abandoned, neglected plot of land just across the street from our house. We found the owner, Herminia, and asked her if she would sell it. No way. Ok, then…Would she allow us to cultivate it? Go ahead –she said- and do as you please.
So we went ahead and did as we pleased. We cleaned the litter in a couple of weeks and we started planting: lavender, roses, rosemary, mint and spearmint, oleanders, carnations, daisies….our neighbours contributed greatly, giving plants, lending tools, watering the garden or encouraging us. One year after, a friend told us, half-joking: “so you are a small Green Guerrilla”. “What is that?”, we asked. Green Guerrillas are organized groups of volunteers who are changing the face of our cities and public spaces by “reclaiming” neglected portions of land and converting them into wonderful gardens. They are brave and effective, and they deserve all the help and encouragement.
We like it when our guests like our house. These very loyal guests (twice in a year, currently planning their third visit!) are an indefatigable group of hikers from Castilla. They travel along with a geologist and some geography teachers who rave about the natural wealth of the area: "it is hard to find so much variety in so little space: seven valleys one after the other mean seven different worlds, from rock glaciers to the fertile plains of Ebro....". They sent us this picture of their last ascension to Trevijano, near Casa Josephine.
When you drive across Rioja region you will spot, here and there, some (not very many) olive trees. Knowing that the soil in this area is so unbelieavably fertile, one may start to think that the production of Rioja olive oil must be something, to say the least, noteworthy. If you stop the car to examine the olives, you will see some interesting varieties: Arbequina, Hojiblanca and Redondilla (indigenous from Rioja). When you learn a bit more about Rioja Olive Oil, you will find out that the production is very small and that it is strictly controlled by the "Denominación de Origen Protegida" commitee. And we mean strictly: they guarantee that the olive oil is Bio, non-transgenic, locally produced out of local olives...They even check that the soil is chemical-free for three years before the first olives are picked! Wanting badly to dip a good piece of bread in Rioja Olive Oil? Well, here's the catch: less than half of the small production is sold outside Rioja; two thirds out of that can be found in very selected delicatessen shops and restaurants around Spain. The remaining bottles go to a few exporters. Likelihood of finding Rioja Olive Oil abroad is.....almost zero. Which gives you another reason to come visit us as soon as possible!
Gwyneth Paltrow will be soon on PBS TV telling the world that Spanish Cuisine is divine. She has been cruising Spain in a convertible with chef Mario Batali for a series of documentaries that are called "Spain....on the road again", to be broadcast this fall. Don't wait for them to tell you how to prepare gazpacho, Spain's cold soup por excelencia. There is nothing better in the summertime. Ingredients: 1'5 kg red ripe tomatoes (peeled) 1 small onion 1 small green peper 3/4 cloves or garlic half a cucumber half a bread loaf (thick crumb type), soaked in water olive oil (2/3 large spoons or more....be generous) wine vinegar salt a bit of cumin (optional) *note: Casa Josephine's gazpacho includes also half a red sweet pepper. **second note: some heathens have been reported to use Tabasco sauce for their gazpacho. Well, may the Inquisition chase them!
How to do it: Chop roughly the ingredients except the olive, vinegar and salt, and then mix everything in the blender. Pass the gazpacho it through a sieve and season it to your taste. Chill thoroughly for some hours before serving it. ¡Que aproveche!
Club VinoSelección publishes VS Magazine, a trendy Bible about lifestyle, food, travels and -surprise- wine. They recently recommended Casa Josephine for its location if you plan to visit Rioja. We are duly grateful, VS! Gracias. www.casajosephine.com
Most of our guests ask us for advice on wineries when planning their stay in Casa Josephine, so we decided to post a list of our Top-Ten favorite wineries in Rioja region. All these wineries are very near our house (from 10 to 45 minutes driving). They have been carefully selected for their artistic value, for the quality of their wine and for their attention to visitors. Hours have been spent preparing this list, and much (much, oh much) wine has been tasted while pondering. Our Ten Favorites: 1-López de Heredia, Haro. 2-Juan Alcorta, Logroño. 3-Baigorri, Samaniego. 4-Regalía, Ollauri. 5-Marqués de Riscal, Elciego. 6-Ysios, Laguardia. 7-Finca Valpiedra, Fuenmayor. 8-CVNE, Haro. 9-Bodegas Bilbaínas, Haro. 10-Viña Real, Laguardia.
1- Bodega López de Heredia. There are easily twenty wineries in or around Haro that are worth a visit. Bodega López de Heredia stands out for the beauty of its buildings, for its history and -goes without saying- for its wine. Founded in the last decades of the 19th century, it is still in the hands of the same family, the descendants of tycoon Mr. López de Heredia, a self-made man who started the construction of his empire in 1877. He was involved in the design of the winery from the very beginning, and he contributed with his own ideas to the construction of a truly remarkable building that was meant to be alive and open to the new trends in architecture. In the beginning of the 21st century, María José López de Heredia was browsing through his great-grandfather's old papers when she decided that the winery needed a decent shop. So she sent an e-mail to Zaha Hadid and ask her if she would do it. You know the rest. Architect Zaha Hadid, designed the decanter-like structure for the winery and won Priztker Prize straight away. It was her first work in Spain. This visit is one of the ten musts when you are in Rioja. Booking in advance is required. www.lopezdeheredia.com
If you like modern architecture, you must visit Bodega Juan Alcorta, in the outskirts of Logroño. You must. You simply must. Designed just a few years ago by Ignacio Quemada, this bodega is built on a hill that overlooks river Ebro. Only a small part of the building (the reception area) is visible at the end of a bumpy road amidst an expansive vineyard grove. It does not look "flashy" or particularly big. This is serious. Keep driving... Most of the winery is built underground, literally merging into nature. You will go downstairs into a modern, high-tech, wonderful building of subtle austere beauty. Little can be said from this point on. This is modern architecture at its best -at its most refined, most intellectual, most elegant. www.domecqbodegas.com
When you are driving along the breathtaking road A-124 and enjoying the gorgeous views over Ebro valley, a protruding big glass cube will catch your eye. This is Bodegas Baigorri, by architect Iñaki Aspiazu. The building won the Best of Wine Tourism Award in 2006. The process of wine-making here is different to anything you may know: winery owners have questioned most of the current elaborating systems and machinery, and bet on the use of simple gravity instead of pumps and funnels, so as not to damage the grape. Sounds simple and sensible, doesn't it? Try their top "vino de garaje" (Tempranillo grape from their oldest vines) and judge for yourself if vino Baigorri is up to the challenge. www.bodegasbaigorri.com
It is often said that wineries are the new cathedrals. However, in front of the stern geometry of this building, one is rather reminded of an Egyptian temple -version 2.0.
Half-buried on top of a sandy hill just off Haro, this bodega was designed by architects Javier Arizcuren and Miguel Alonso, who were awarded with Technal prize for their exacting work. The building would be worth a visit even if empty. But, let's not forget, this is a winery. A modern great winery. An avant-garde winery where technology is used to treat the grape with utmost care. If this is what the future will be like, let's drink to it! www.bodegasregalia.es
Everybody knows the story by now: Owner of winery Marqués de Riscal wanted a "Guggenheim effect" in the small village of Elciego. So they invited Frank Gehry for a visit to their winery and tried to talk him into building a hotel for them. He was -rumor has it- not very tempted to design something that looked too "Guggenheim-like". So he said he would think it over. "Oh, by the way, Mr. Gehry", said the winery owner, "since you were born in 1929, we happen to have some bottles from that vintage, that, by the way, happens to be quite good...". So they drank together to the future building. Frank Gehry designed only the hotel. The visit to winery Marqués de Riscal focuses exclusively in the 19th century buildings and the cellars, which are spectacular. But visitors are only allowed to view Gehry's work from a distance -unless you have lunch or dinner in the marvelous hotel restaurant! www.marquesderiscal.com
The view from the balcony of Samaniego Park, in Laguardia, which was already breathtaking, has been enhanced with the construction of Bodega Ysios at the foot of Cantabria mountains. This building needs to be seen from the distance to fully understand what Calatrava means when he says that this winery's roof echoes the shape of the sierra above. For this building is, indeed, one half of a conversation -the landscape being the other. Brilliant clear idea, isn't it? Calatrava kept it simple and efficient here, and he won. For an architect to whom less is never too less, this is, at least, lesser. www.domecqbodegas.com
7- Finca Valpiedra, Fuenmayor. Just 10 minutes away from Casa Josephine, Finca Valpiedra is the place we drive to when we run out of reserva. This winery is a modern neo-château built in the heart of a wide estate on the left bank of river Ebro. They produce only two wines per year: their outstanding Finca Valpiedra Reserva and a younger 100% Tempranillo. When you drink their wines in their tasting room, looking down at the vines that grow by the water, you will understand that they do not need to bother producing anything else. http://www.familiamartinezbujanda.com/
8 -CVNE, Haro CVNE wines have always been at our table, and for a good reason: they have constantly good for the past 130 years. The history of CVNE is the history of how technology has been used for the sole aim here: to make and sell wine. They are serious workers and they do not waste time. They are unpretentious. They are so focused on their task that they seem not to care much about the splendid late 19th architecture around - including, by the way, a building by Gustave Eiffel! Visit CVNE to learn how to make your business live up to its standards vintage after vintage. www.cvne.com
The fantastic visit to this winery takes you from the vine (literally) to the bottle. It also takes you back in time, to the origin of modern -19th century- Rioja wine making, when phylloxera devastated the vineyards in Bordeaux and French producers had to look for new non-infected soil. You know the story: French producers were buying Rioja and selling it as French wine. It took time for the Riojanos to wake up and start producing their own, but they eventually -after some years of seeing the trains off with silly a silly smile- managed to do it. www.bodegasbilbainas.com
10- Viña Real, Laguardia. Philippe Mazières used steel, wood and stone for this outstanding futuristic building, which was awarded in Expobois even before it was finished. Its structural "gem" is the huge barrel-like massive building for storing the wine. Viña Real is behind a hill on a small road between Logroño and Laguardia, so you might miss it (and it would be a pity) unless you specifically drive there. Viña Real is part of CVNE group. www.cvne.com
Your house in Rioja Wine Region, Spain.
Charming upscale accommodation for a travel experience to the heart of Rioja Wine Region.
Bienvenidos a Casa Josephine.
www.casajosephine.com
